LE MARCHE

SOUTH LE MARCHE

Ascoli Piceno and Fermano

The old province of Ascoli Piceno is currently being divided into two: Ascoli Piceno (province capital: Ascoli) and Fermano (province capital: Fermo).

These beautiful provinces in the south of Le Marche, framed to the east by the blue of the Adriatic sea, and to the west by the Apennine mountains, form a perfect “little Italy,” where geographical characteristics and historical events, with their consequential social-economic effects, have created a diversity that is the true richness of this area. Variety is the element that most characterises the Piceno territory.

The Coast

The blue of the calm Adriatic Sea is met by a narrow strip of sandy beaches, Liberty Style Villas, palms, oleander, bouganvillia and maritime pines giving it a true meditteranean feel, before rising sharply to the first hilltop towns. Here you will see the importance of the fishing industry and at the many ports you can watch the boats returning with their daily catch ready to distribute to the many excellent fresh fish restaurants that can be found in every town and village. Historically, international trade was very important and its effects can be seen in the architecture and traditions of the maritime villages and also the hilltop villages on the first wave of the hills.


The “rolling hills”

The hills and valleys of Ascoli Piceno are the most beautiful in Le Marche: more rolling than to the north with a greater concentration of hilltop villages, and a greater variation in agricultural activity, creating that magical patchwork quilt of colours throughout the year.

Rolling hills, their summits capped by fortified villages, stretching for miles, fold into each other occasionally interrupted by the yellow cliffs, finally to be framed by the blue of the sky or the Adriatic Sea to the east, and the dark forms of the Sibillini mountains, snow capped during the winter months, to the west. Distant hilltop villages and towns are highlighted by the sunshine and their yellow bricks lit up contrast sharply with the greens and browns of the countryside that falls below them.

The lonely farmhouses, reached by a labyrinth of white lanes, sit amongst the stripes of the vinyards, the silver grey of the olive groves, the orchards with their white and pink blossoms; and, the fields of wheat and sunflowers ploughed brown in winter, turning green with the warmth of spring before finally becoming yellow in the heat of the summer sun. Its natural beauty is ever changing. The different seasons, the changing weather, the striking sunrises and sunsets, combine together to ensure that you never see the same view twice.



Footpaths

Set amongst these hills you can discover the delights of the many public footpaths available. These footpaths were once used frequently by the country folk going about their daily working lives and whilst today they have lost their importance, the pleasure that they offer continues. Here remains an opportunity to see a hidden corner of Le Marche that is gradually shrinking.

Wandering through this trail you will still find evidence of the traditional labour intensive farming of the past. Turning a corner you may stumble across a lonely farmhouse seemingly inhabitable only to discover an elderly couple, still tending their vegetable plots, orchards, vines, olive trees, chickens and rabbits as they have done for 60 or 70 years. Alternatively you may encounter a shepherd guiding his flock with the sound of the sheep bells ringing gently in the air.

On these paths you will also discover that, despite what seems to be written in many of the articles on central italy, there is a wide variety and an abundance of bird life in this area. Birdsong (or the tapping of woodpeckers) will follow you through your walk and if you are lucky you will see the timid hoopoe or cuckoo, woodpeckers, pheasant and an abundance of smaller birds (the wren and the long tailed tit being my favourites).

Theses paths not only take you through the countryside but also through each of the villages where you can wander and visit some of the important churches and other historical buildings, as well as having a rest in one of the local bars and watching the locals going about their daily lives.

Villages

This extraordinary natural beauty of the hills is matched by the wonder of its villages. The true heart of this region is in these small historic centres. It is in these villages that you will discover the real Le Marche and its people. Each village has its own history that is reflected in its design and architecture, its art, its traditions and customs, its cuisine, its sagras and festivals and of course, its people.

The best time to admire the architecture of a village is between 1 and 4 p.m when Italian law would appear to apply a curfew. Do not worry about breaking this restriction as the Carabinieri would also appear to be confined to barracks during these hours! In the silence one can admire the buildings, their yellow brick glowing in the sunshine or darkened by the shade of the narrow streets and the height of the buildings. From the houses voices and the clinking of crockery and cutlery can be heard, and the smell of tomato sauce floats in the air. The voices and the smells are particularly strong during november and february when the heavy mists amplify everything.


Valleys

One of the most important valleys is the Val D'Aso. The Val d'Aso has a long tradition of horticultural activity and is the principal zone for the production of fruit and vegetables in Le Marche. Taking the road from the beach resort of Pedaso towards the distinct forms of the Sibillini mountains you will be amazed at the number of family run business that continue to thrive on the valley floor.

Many of these small business have in recent years moved over to organic production and rekindled some of their disappearing cultivation techniques. Today you can visit the farm shops and buy freshly picked fruit and vegetables, jams, fruit in syrup, vegetables under oil or pickled and usually fresh free range eggs. In this way you can ensure that you are buying the best whilst also supporting the local community and ensuring that the valley retains its delightful charecteristics.

Alternatively you can just drive through the valley during springtime, admire the delightful tapestry of fruit blossom (apple, pear, cherry, peach, apricot, pomegranet, plum) and visit the “Val d'Aso in Flower” springtime festival!